Monday, August 4, 2014

The View from Above the World: Mardin


When I first set eyes upon the city of Mardin, some thirty years ago, I thought I had entered a place of enchantment, peace and tranquility, mystery, and dreams, perched on the side of a mountain, on the edge of the world.  As you first catch a glimpse of the city from afar, you think it is deserted, but upon entering it's hub, you are captivated, and the sites around you engulf and mesmerize, and you know you have found a place that will forever remain with you, visually and, somewhat, spiritually.

The entire city is an open-air museum, and exploring the narrow streets and alleys transports you back centuries through civilizations of Sumerians, Babylonians, Assyrians, Persians, through Byzantines and Ottomans, and then up to the present day.  What else would you expect from a place situated between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers? It is a city capped by a castle, built upon down through the centuries - a city where many civilizations meet, and leave the most precious of their artifacts, traditions, and stories behind.

Scattered throughout the city and plain, ancient mosques and monasteries sit side by side.  The Deryrulzafaran monastery was the World Syriac Patriarchate between 1116 and 1932, and there are madrasas dating back to the 12th century.  Dialog and respect between religions has been handed down here for centuries, contributing to the calm and surreal atmosphere of this city.

The bedestens and bazaars, famous for their soaps and filigree, are pure joy, with sights, sounds, and aromas that pull you in and invite you to linger and savor every moment.  And, have I mentioned the famous Mardin coffee?  On a recent visit I enjoyed a break on the terrace of a monastery cafĂ©, savoring every moment, surrounded by the beauty of the hills, architectural treasures, and pure peace and tranquility.

Mardin is located off the beaten path, but this only contributes to it's charm, ambience, and mystique.  And I treasure every visit, and dream of the next, and of sharing this amazing place with friends and family and fellow travelers searching for an historical and cultural experience.